John Muir Trail 2019 (3) VVR to near MTR

8/22
7時、American breakfast。せっかくアメリカに来たからね。午前中は洗濯とか荷物の整理をした。お昼は抜くべきだけど、高カロリーバーガーでランチ。

時間があるので、時々、ハイカーボックスを物色に行く。何度も行って、エナジーバーは十分に集めた。パックのツナもいくつか、夕方にはMountain Houseのフリーズドライを捨てる人がいて、お勧めと言われたので、三つばかり頂いた。

We choiced American breakfast at 7:00 a.m., because we were in America. We washed our clothes and checked the resupply in the morning. We should skip lunch, but we ate high calorie burgers.

American breakfast

free food from the Hiker box

Jim

朝から韓国人のハイカーがずっとシャトルを待って、来ないと憤っていた。英語は下手だった。JMTをやっていたが、疲れたので、少しショートカットするらしい。フローレンス湖に行くという。店の人に確認してみると、ちゃんと予約が取れていないようだった。昼近くになってやっとシャトルが現れた。

A Korean hiker had been waiting for the shuttle since the morning, and was in a bad temper. His English was poor. We was doing JMT,  but seemed to make a shortcut, because he was tired. He was going to Lake Florence. When I checked with the staff at the store, no reservation was properly made. The shuttle finally appeared near noon.

Jimの姿が見えないので、少し気落ちしていたが、夕方、Jimが店に来て、忙しくお客の対応をしていた。明日、Bear Creek Trailまでシャトルを頼んでいたが、なんとシャトルが壊れたという。韓国人がわめいて運転を誤ったのかもしれない。Bear Creekを歩きたいのに困ったと思っていると、Jimが送るという。

We were a little disappointed because we couldn't see Jim. But Jim came to the store in the evening and was busy dealing with customers. I had booked the shuttle to the Bear Creek Trailhead tomorrow. Jim said the shuttle was broken. I thought the Korean was angry and he disturbed the driver. Jim said that he gave us the ride to Bear Creek trailhead.

後で聞いたが、その時、傍にいた中国系アメリカ人がJimに乗せてくれと頼んだが、断られたという。Jimは我々を友人と見なし、そのアメリカ人は友人でないから乗車を断ったようだ。

Later, I heard that a Chinese-American who was nearby asked Jim to get a ride, but he was refused. Jim sees us as friends. He apparently declines the ride because the hiker was not a friend.

8/23
早めに起きてパッキング。Jimは早くから来て店で客の相手をしていた。朝食を食べ、会計を済ませ、店の裏に行った。スタッフが荷物を載せてくれた。しばらくするとJimが現れ、8時半に出発、Bear Creek Cutoff Trail headに9時到着。

途中、歩いているハイカーがいて、ヒッチハイクを試みるがJimは無視した。友だち以外は乗せないということで、少し驚いた。Jimとしばし別れを惜しむ。不思議なことに10年前に会った時からJimは単なる顧客ではなく友人として見なしてくれた。国が違っても、なんとなく気が合うことがあるらしい。

We got up early and packed. Jim had been the store early to serve the customers. We ate breakfast, finished accounting, and went to the back of the store. The staff loaded our luggage on the car. After a while, Jim appeared and departed at 8:30 a.m. We arrived at the Bear Creek Cutoff trailhead at 9 a.m.

There were hikers walking along the way, trying to hitchhike but Jim ignored. I was a little surprised that he gave a ride only for his friends. We talked with him for a while. Strangely, Jim had seen me as a friend consistently, not just a customer, since we met ten years ago. Even if the country is different, some people seems to get together.

バックパックは30kgを越えるので、登りに時間がかかる。Bear Creek Cutoff TrailのPassで10時半、休憩し、川に下りてからランチ(パン、コーヒー、エナジーバー)。12時頃出発、Bear Creek Trailを遡る。以前、歩いた時は釣り人が多かったが、今回は人と会わなかった。15時頃、Jimにシャトルを断られた軽装の中国系アメリカ人夫婦に追い抜かれた。彼らはMTRでも補給するようだ。

It took time to climb along the river, since my backpack was over 30kg. We took a break at the pass along Bear Creek Cutoff Trail 10:30 a.m. We took the lunch near the river (bread, coffee, energy bar). We started hike again at around 12:00 and followed Bear Creek Trail. In the past, when I walked there were many anglers, but this time I saw no angler. At around 15:00, the Chinese-American couple who had been refused the ride by Jim went ahead, because their backpacks were very light.  They seemed to get a resupply at MTR.


荷物が重いので、なかなか進めない。JMTのjunctionを目指したが、とても無理。標高を上げて、地図で小川を見つけたので、そこまで進む。トレイルの傍だったが、見晴らしがよくテント設営。5時半頃。夕食は、拾ったMountain Houseのビーフシチューなど。フリーズドライでも10分くらい煮ないと柔らかくならない。まずまずの味だが、意外に時間がかかった。野菜ご飯にツナを乗せて食べた。

It was difficult to walk, because of heavy backpack. The destination was near the junction of JMT, but it was impossible. We gained the altitude and found the creek on the map, so I headed for the creek. The campsite was near the trail, but the view was good. I pitched the tent around 5:30 p.m. The dinner was Mountain House beef stew. Even it was freeze-dried food, it needed to boil for around 10 minutes. The taste was good, but it needed cooking time. We also ate tuna on vegetable rice.

Bear Creek

Bear Creek

The first campsite along Bear Creek

Mountain House beef stew

Tuna on vegetable and rice

8/24

7:45出発、9:45 JMTに合流。少し手前がグズグズの湿地帯。トレイルが乱れていた。JMTに合流してからコーヒータイム。11:50 レイク・イタリーでランチ。しばらくすると、ウェイン(綴り不明)という人が現れた。右ショルダーにニコンの一眼レフ、左にプラボトル。重量のバランスを取るためという。水を飲むと、バランスが壊れるんだけどね。この人とサファイヤ・レイク辺りでも会う。

We started to hike at 7:45 a.m. , joined JMT at 9:45 JMT. There was a wetland before the junction. The trail was disordered. Coffee time after joining JMT. Lunch at Lake Italy at 11:50 a.m. After a while, a man named Wayne (his spell was unknown) appeared. He had Nikon SLR on right shoulder, plastic bottle on the left. He said it is good to balance the weight. I thought when he drunk the water the balance would be broken. I met this guy near Sapphire Lake again.

ベア・クリークは通常渡渉点の少し下流を渡ったが、蚊だらけの場所に突っ込んでしまった。その後、少しコースを外れたが、トレイルに戻って休憩。マリーレイクまでは無理な印象だったので、15:40テント設営。Rose Lakeへのjunction 近く。一番よい場所を占拠。洗濯もした。

We crossed Bear Creek at slightly downstream of the usual crossing point, but plunged into a place full of mosquitoes. After that, we went off the course a bit, but returned to the trail and took a break. I thought it was impossible to reach Mary Lake, so we set up a 15:40 tent near the junction to Rose Lake. We occupied the best places. we washed our clothes.

Wayne(?), near the junction to Lake Italy

near the junction to Rose Lake Trail

8/25

8時出発、9時30分、Marie Lake, コーヒー休憩、Selden Pass 11:00。12:30 Heart Lake の傍でランチ。Senger Creek 15:30。Piute Trail junctionまで届きそうにない。MTRへの分岐を過ぎて下るが、水と良いキャンプサイトが見つからない。18時、最後のスイッチバックの折れ目の傍にテント設営。水を探しに10分ほど歩くが見つからず、戻って一つ前のスイッチバックの茂みの中に小さい水流を見つけて、問題解決。

We started to hike at 8:00 a.m. Marie Lake at 9:30, coffee break, Selden Pass 11:00,  Lunch by Heart Lake 12:30. Senger Creek 15:30. It is unlikely to reach the Piute Trail junction. We passed the junction to MTR. I tried to find water, but no water and no good campsites. I pitched the tent near the last switchback to SouthFork at 18:00.  I walked forward for about 10 minutes to find the water, but I couldn't find it. I went back and found a small stream in the bush at the previous switchback. The problem was solved.

Marie Lake

Heart Lake

Alpine Columbine

At the last switchback to SouthFork

dinner, dried carrot, rice and tuna

写真はここ。
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dvhQovXxERh7zC1Y7

John Muir Trail 2019 (2) Tuolumne to VVR

8/15
7:40出発。トイレの傍でライブレッドを見つけて拾ってしまう。11時ランチ、17:00 Lyell headwaterへ向かう橋を渡り、奥まった場所にテント設営。非常によい場所、しかし、夕食でみりん干しを焼いて食べているとレンジャーが来た。水場から30m離れていないという。使い古されたキャンプサイトだったので、普通は許される場所あり得ない。キャンプ禁止なら立て札作っておけと文句を言っておいた。しかし、仕方ないから夕食後に移動することにした。

We started to hike at 7:40. I found rye bread near the restroom and picked it up. 11:00 Lunch. We crossed the bridge to Lyell headwater and set up a tent in a recessed place at 17:00. It was a very good location, but a ranger came when we are eating dinner (baking mirinboshi --dried fish seasoned with mirin ). He said that our tent was not 30 meter away from the water. I thought it was a frequently used campsite, where usually allowed to pitch a tent. I complained that a ban sign should be indicated if camping was prohibited. However, we decided to move after dinner.

最初の場所、川から離れているし、普通はキャンプ禁止ではないが、だんだんとヨセミテは規制が厳しくなっているようだ。ここに至る上流部の使い古されたキャンプサイトにはキャンプ禁止の表示があった。

The first campsite. It was located enough distance from the river. But Yosemite N.P. seemed to be becoming very strict. The frequently used campsites along the river to this point had prohibit signs.

移動した場所。なかなか良い場所だったけどね。

The second campsite we moved. Very good place.

8/16

7時50出発、Donohue Pass 11:30 ランチ。12時出発、Passの所に昨日のレンジャーがいる。ずっとキャンプしてPermitのチェックをしているという。けっこう仕事が厳しい。どうも昨日はみりん干しの臭いに釣られて現れたようだ。

We started to hike  at 7:50,  Donohue Pass at 11:30. Lunch. We walked to the pass at 12 o'clock, the ranger yesterday we met was at the Pass. He said he had been camping and checking at this pass all the hiker for the permit. His job seemed be be pretty tough. Apparently, he had caught by the smell of mirinboshi, and appeared.

Lyell 最上流部、奥に見えるのはMt.Lyell
The most upstream of Lyell creek, Mt.Lyell is seen in the back

腰のピストルに注意。地位の高いレンジャーのようだ。普通、レンジャーはピストルは携帯していない。以前に常駐していたレンジャーはピストルを携帯していなかった。Donohue Passでのチェックが厳しくなったことを意味する。

Pay attention to the pistol on his waist. It looked like a high-ranking ranger. Normally, rangers do not carry pistols. At least, the ranger did not carry a pistol before. This means that the checks at the Donohue Pass have become stricter.

Rush Creek 上流部 upstream

Island Pass。

Island Passの小さな裸地にテント設営、17時30分。
We pitched our tent on the small bare place of the Island Pass at 17:30.

8/17

8時20分出発、Thousand Island Lake 10時半、JMT方面は雪が付いているし、好ましくないので、PCTルートに変更。Agnew Trailを1時間ほど歩いてランチ。今年は花がきれい。

We started to hike at 8:20. Thousand Island Lake at 10:30.We changed to PCT route due to snow on JMT area. Lunch on the Agnew Trail at 11:30. The flowers are beautiful this year.

Thousand Island Lake

Mariposa Lily

シカゴから来た日本人に挨拶される。2泊3日のハイキングだった。装備が寒くて眠れなかったとのこと。夜に氷点下になることを知らなかったのだろう。我々はダウンマットに氷点下対応のスリーピングバッグ。一応、Hiking in America Groupを紹介しておいた。

A Japanese greeted us, who came from Chicago. He intended to hike for three days and two nights. He said he couldn't sleep with cold, because of the poor equipment. I thought he probably did not know that it would be below freezing at night. We have sub-zero sleeping bags and down mats. For now, I introduced Hiking in America facebook group.

歩くのが遅いので先に行って貰う。16時半、水場と見晴らしの良いキャンプサイトを見つけたのでテント設営。
Let him go ahead, because we were walking slowly. At 16:30, we found a water fountain and a good campsite, so we pitched a tent.

PCTルート

無理をせずテント設営

8/18 7時20分出発、昨日の日本人ともう一度会う。Agnew Meadowのキャンプサイトを見ると混んでいるようなので、下りなかったようだ。トレイルヘッド9:00、ゴミを捨てる。Reds MeadowのMule Caffe 13時40分。だいぶ遅れてしまったが、ハンバーガーとコーヒーで遅めの昼食とした。

We started to hike at 7:20 and met the Japanese again. He looked down at Agnew Meadow's campsite, he thought it was crowded, and didn't descended. We reached the trailhead at 9:00, dump trash. Mule Caffe at Reds Meadow at 13:40. It was very late, and we had a late lunch with hamburger and coffee.

Devil's Postpile、午後でないと日陰になり、きれいな写真が写せない

Devil's Postpile, good photo is taken only in the afternoon

15時出発、Red Conesへのスイッチバックが長い。登り切って、17時半、テント設営。一応は予定通り。

We departed Reds Meadow at 3pm, long switchbacks to Red Cones. After climbing, we set up a tent at 17:30, as previously planned.

Redsでは買うような物がなかったが、ブドウがあったので、夕食に食べた。ビーフジャーキーを戻した炒め物、玄米焼米と納豆と乾燥野菜、スープがメイン。

We couldn't buy good food except grapes at Reds Meadow, so we ate for dinner. The menu was stir-fried beef jerky, brown rice, natto, dried vegetables and soup.

8/19
千恵子が少し睡眠障害。8:30出発、薄い雲が広がっていた。Deer Creek 10:30着。Purple Lake 17:30着。湖の西側のキャンプサイトにテント設営。夕食はみりん干し定食。

Chieko complained about sleep disorder a little. We started to hike at 8:30, thin clouds were spreading. We arrived Deer Creek at 10:30, lunch. Purple Lake at 17:30. We pitched a tent at the campsite on the west side of the lake. Dinner menu was mirinboshi set meal.

Silver Pass direction

our campsite 

Purple Lake

8/20
8時半出発、10時Lake Virginia、11時半Tully Hall、下りた水場でランチ。シルバーパスを越えようと思ったが、ペースが遅く、Squaw Lake辺りで時間切れ。良いキャンプサイトがなく、Halfmileの地図あった場所まで行く。水場は少し離れていたが、問題ない良い場所だった。16:30テント設営。

We started to hike at 8:30, Lake Virginia at 10:00, Tully Hall at 11:30, lunch at the stream. I thought we would like to cross the Silver Pass, but the pace my wife was slow. We ran out of time around Squaw Lake. There are no good campsites near the lake. I looked for the campsite of the Halfmile's map. The water was a bit far away, but it was a good place. We pitched a tent at 16:30.

Lake Virginia

Squaw Lake

Goodale Pass Trail Junctionの近くのキャンプサイト

8/21
8時出発、Silver Pass 9時。フェリー乗り場15時15分着。VVRは17時30分。テントを設営して、シャワーを浴びる。夕食はNew York SteakとApple Pie。Steakの付け合わせのジャガイモが不味い。昨年のクックがベストだった。

We started to hike at 8:00, Silver Pass at 9:00. Arrived at the ferry terminal at 15:15. VVR is 17:30. We pitched a tent and take a shower. Dinner was New York Steak and Apple Pie. The potato with Steak was not good. Last year's cook was the best.

Chief Lake

New York Steak at VVR

写真はここ。
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dvhQovXxERh7zC1Y7

John Muir Trail 2019 (1) Narita to Tuolumne

ヨセミテからの南行きpermitの抽選に当たる確率は非常に低く、一カ月以上外れ続き、Tahoe Rim Trailに行く準備を整えた。明日、飛行機の予約をするという日に千恵子が変なメールが来ているという。当選のメールだった。そこで急遽、行く準備を整えた。permitは8月15日と遅いが、雪が非常に多い年だったので、雪溶けが進んだ良い時期になる。

The probability of get a southbound permit from Yosemite were very small. We continue to lose more than a month. We are ready for the Tahoe Rim Trail. Chieko said that she got a weird email, when I was ready to book the airplane tickets tomorrow. It was a permit reservation email. Then,  in a hurry, we prepared to hike JMT. The permit date was August 15. It was late as a normal year, but it was a very snowy year, so it was a good time for snow to melt.

8/11
フライトは何時ものシンガポール航空。8/11成田発。成田からの機内食は良くなかった。昼にビュッフェで正解か。割によく寝たのでロスに着いた時にダメージが少なかった。ただし、イミグレーションのチェックが厳重になって、二時間あまりかかってしまった。ロス在住の大滝さんが来てくれたが、かなり待たせたようだ。フレズノ行きの飛行機は20時に変更になったため、夕食が必要なので、近くのIn & Out burgerに行った。きちんと作ったバーガーで美味しかった。

We usually fly to USA by Singapore Airlines. Departs from Narita on 8/11. In-flight meals from Narita were not good. Therefore, it might be good to take a buffet in the afternoon. We slept relatively well, so when we arrived at Los Angeles, we were not tired. However, the immigration check was strict and took about two hours. We met Mr. Otaki, who lives in Los Angeles, but we seemed to have kept him waiting for a long time. The flight to Fresno was changed at 20:00 and we needed dinner, so we went to nearby In & Out burger shop. It was a good burger and delicious.

FresnoのPicadilly Innは空港から徒歩5分、あらかじめストリートビューで予習ずみ。

Picadilly Inn in Fresno is a 5-minute walk from the airport, I had learned in Street View beforehand.

8/12
朝食はもちろんパンケーキ(Picadilly Inn)。十分カロリーオーバーなので昼食抜き。ビッグ5方面に向かって歩くが、遠い。1時間ほどかかった。ガスキャニスター、REPEL、エナジーバーを購入。帰りはバスを利用。明日のYARTSバスの乗り場を確認した。

Ofcourse, we selected pancakes for the breakfast (Picadilly Inn). We took enough calories, then no lunch needed. We walked towards Big 5, but it was very far. It took about an hour. We purchase gas canisters, REPEL, and energy bar. We returned by bus. I checked the YARTS bus platform for tomorrow.

5時過ぎに近くの中華のビュッフェに行くが、なんと休み。もう一度、ビッグ5近くの中華ビュッフェまで歩く。シニア割引で$16.7。割に良かった。塩辛くないし甘さも控え目。果物ではマンゴーが旨かった。帰りはバスと考えてバスを待つが来ない。終了していたようだ。宿まで暗い中を歩く。

We went to a nearby Chinese buffet after 5 o'clock, but it was closed. Once again, we walked to the Chinese buffet near Big 5. $ 16.7 for seniors. It tasted good, not salty and sweet. Mango was delicious in fruits. We wanted to return by a bus and waited, but it did not come. I thought it had finished. We walked in the darkness to the inn.

8/13

YARTバスでヨセミテに向かう。乗客は少し。バスの乗り心地はよい。ヨセミテに昼過ぎ到着。混んでいて、ブリトーを買うが美味しくない。失敗。夜のためにステーキ、ベーグルなどを買う。4時のバスでTuolumne。夕食はステーキ定食。

We rode the YART bus bound to Yosemite. A few passenger. The bus was comfortable. We arrived Yosemite in the afternoon. The store was very crowded. We bought burritos,  but they were not delicious. Failure. We bought steaks, bagels, etc. for the night. We rode the bus bound to Tuolumne at 4 o'clock. Dinner was a steak set meal.

8/14

夜はよく寝た。時差調整はOK。立山で行った高度順応も良かったようだ。Wilderness OfficeへPermitを取りに行く。7回目というと、説明を簡単にしてすぐに出してくれた。暇だからSoda Springの方向へ向かい、ぐるりと回る。昼食はTuolumne Storeのハンバーガー。Storeに野菜や果物がなく、途方にくれたが、夕方もう一度行くと、たくさんあった。夕方に仕入れるようだ。

We slept well. Time adjustment was OK. The altitude adaptation camp at Tateyama worked also good. We went to the Wilderness Office for the permit. When I said to  the ranger this was the 7th time of JMT, The explanation became very short, and he gave me the permit immediately. We walked to Soda Spring because we had time. Lunch was burgers at the Tuolumne Store. There were no vegetables or fruits in the Store at that time. We were very disappointed. But when we checked the store again in the evening, there were many. They seems to buy in the evening.

ステーキはないので、夕食はソーセージとなる。

There is no steak, so the main dish of the dinner is sausage.

いよいよ明日からJMTを始める。

Now, we will start JMT tomorrow.

写真はここ。The photos is here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dvhQovXxERh7zC1Y7