2013年11月2日土曜日

The hiking of Glacier N.P. ---The 1st stage ---


https://picasaweb.google.com/104620544810418955412/TheHikingOfGlacierNPThe1stStage?noredirect=1


グレイシャーの予約システムは、ヨセミテとはまったく異なる。ヨセミテではパーミットをとりさえすれば、どこにテントを張ろうが自由だが、グレイシャーではキャンプ地が規定さていて、それ以外に張ることはできない。キャンプ地は、ピットトイレ、食料を吊す場所、食事の場所、テントサイトに区分さて、テントサイトは3-4つしかない。一つのサイトには二人用のテントが二つしか張れない。それで一つのキャンプ地に宿泊できる人数の上限は6-8名となる。

The reservation system of Glacier NP is completely different from Yosemite NP  In Yosemite NP, if you get a permit, you can pitch your tent anywhere, but In Glacier NP, you can pitch your tent at your reserved campsite. The campsite is composed of food hanging pole, food preparation area, pit toilet, and tent sites. There are only three or four tent sites, and only two tent should be pitched in each site. Therefore, the maximal number of person in a campsite may be 6-8.

当初、シュルーマーは後半の一週間のみしか予約出来ていなかった。幸い、Two MedicineのRanger Stationで前半の一週間の予約が出来た。我々の予約は次のような状況だった。一日0.5マイルの日、20マイルで標高差1000メーター以上の日が混じっている。これは予約の関係である。この通りに歩く必要があった。

At the beginning, Shroomer had reserved only for one week of the second half. Fortunately, we got reservation for one week of the first half at the Ranger Station of Two Medicine. Our reservation was in the following situations. There were the days: The day of 0.5 mile distance, and  day of 20 miles distance with 1200 meters elevation up and 600 meters down. This is a result of reservation. We needed to follow this permit.


シュルーマーがどのように物資補給をするのか、知らなかった。車を2台利用し、1台は補給物資保管用、1台は移動用であった。補給場所に1台の車を置き、4名が乗車して1台でトレイルに向かい、補給場所に着いたら、2人がその車で当初のトレイルヘッドに戻って、車を持ち帰り、次の補給場所に補給用車を置いてくるという戦略だった。補給場所はMany GlacierとTwo Medicineだった。数日分の食料だけ持って移動できる利点はあるが、200kmほど車で移動しないといけないので、これも結構大変である。私なら2週間分の食料を持ってトレイル・ヘッドに立つだろう。途中のレストランには店が併設されていて、食料を購入することができる。贅沢を言わなければ、数日間の食料を持つだけで途中で購入しつつ縦走できると思う。

I did not know the Shroomer's plan about resupply at first. His plan is by using two cars, one car was used for re-supply, and the another was used for movement. At first, put one car at the resupply point, four persons rode on another car, drove to the trail head, and start to hike.  When we arrived at the resupply point, two persons drive to the trail head by the car,  drive to the next resupply point by two cars, and return by one car. It was the strategy. Our resupply points were Many Glacier and Two Medicine. Although there is an advantage that we can hike with only several days food, the driver should  move by car about 200 km. This is also very tough. If I hike Glacier NP alone, I will start to hike with one or two weeks food.  There are stores beside the restaurant. Then  I can purchase resupply. If you are not nervous about food, you can hike with several days food purchasing on the way.

8/12

6:00に起きて、簡単に食事をして、7:00 Two Medicineのレンジャー・ステーションに行く。予約金の支払いを行い、グリズリー・ベアの教育ビデオを見ることが義務づけられていた。このビデオはグレイシャー国立公園のホームページにもあるので、すでに一度見たことがあった。料金は、Wilderness Permitとキャンプ料金を含めて、一人当たり80ドル程度だったと思う。

We wake up at 6:00, had breakfast quickly, and went to the Two Medicine ranger station at 7:00.  We payed for the permit and the reservation, and obliged to see the educational video of grizzly bear.  I had already seen once, since this video was also in the homepage of Glacier N.P. I think the payment  was about 80 dollars per person including Wilderness Permit and campsite reservation.

まず、2台の車でMany Glacierに行き、Shroomerの車に補給物資を格納し、Trail Hackerの車に4名が乗車して、カナダへ向かった。カナダ国境ではパスポートを見せるだけ。私だけ日本人だから何時帰国するかと聞かれた。Trail Hackerたちは入国スタンプも押してくれないので、不満だった。しばらくして、見晴らしのよい駐車場があり、休憩し、パノラマ撮影を試みた。

First, we went to Many Glacier by two cars, and stored resupplies in  Shroomer's car. We rode on Trail Hacker's car, and  went to Canada. On the Canadian border, we only showed passports. I was asked when I would go back, since I was an only Japanese. Trail Hacker was dissatisfied, because he could not get an immigration stamp.  After a while, we stopped at the good parking place, and I took a panoramic photograph.

Waterton Parkのトレイルヘッド近くに11:30 到着。車をデポし、水を補給し出発。トレイルは湖岸を進む。しばらくは日帰りのハイカーが多かった。Bertha Lakeの分岐を過ぎると我々だけになる。途中、砂浜があったので休憩。少し先に国境があった。木を刈り込んだ防火帯だったので、ちょっと笑ってしまった。Shroomerは17:00までに国境警備隊の所に行くと急ぐ。彼は一度来ているはずなのに、ペース配分が分からないようだった。16:00国境警備隊の所に到着。私だけ何時帰国するか聞かれた。Piperによると、一種の虐めらしい。カナダ入国の際、パスポートにスタンプを押してくれなかったので、ここのスタンプを押しまくる。Goat Hauntのテント場はシェルターになっていて、コンクリートの上にテントを張った。食事の後は暇。Trail Hackerは自動車にボトルを忘れたので、ゴミ箱から調達。公式にHiker Trashと認定された。私も何かめぼしい物はないかと調べてみた。するとShroomerがYoshihiroをダメにしてやったと誇らしげにいう。そんなこと言ったって、これは大昔からの習慣だよと言い返す。アメリカ基準では、遠い昔からHiker Trashだったようだ。観光客を乗せたフェリーが就航している。湖の南北を結ぶだけだが、カナダとアメリカを往復するので、Internationalという表示がある。ウソではない。片道25ドル、往復42ドルと高め。

We arrived near the trail head of Waterton Park at 11:30. We parked a car, got water and started to hike. The trail followed the lakefront. There were many day hikers for a while. We became lonely when we passed the junction of Bertha Lake. On the way, we rested on the sands. There was Canadian border a little before. I laughed just for a moment, since it looked like the firebreak which cut the tree. Shroomer hurried, because we should reach the border patrol  by 17:00. He had been here, so he should know the suitable walking pace, but I think he did not know. Therefore, we arrive at the border patrol at 16:00. I was the only person, asked when I went back. According to Piper, it was a kind of tease. We pushed the stamp on our passport here, since a stamp was not pushed on the passport at the time of the Canadian entrance. The campsite of Goat Haunt was a shelter and pitched my tent on the concrete, others did cowboy camping. Nothing to do after dinner. Since Trail Hacker forgot the bottles in the car, he searched the bottles in the garbage box. Then, Trail Hacker was admitted officially as a Hiker Trash.  I also looked into the garbage box whether there were some attractive things. Then, I was said proudly by Shroomer. "We spoiled Yoshihiro!"  -- But, I said this was an old custom from young ages. On the U.S. standard, I seemed to be a Hiker Trash from ancient times. The ferry was in service with boarding many tourists.  Since it connect Canada and the United States, its body was painted as"international". It was not a lie. The rate was very expensive: one way was  25 dollars, and the round trip was 42 dollars.

Today's English

Bear Jam 熊見学の車で道がふさがってしまうことをいう。Lower Two Medicine Lakeの上流部に熊の通り道があって、車を止めて見学する人が後を絶たない。

Bear Jam ... The road was closed because of the bear sightseer's cars.  There was a place bear frequently cross at the upper part of Lower Two Medicine Lake. Many people stopped their cars and watched a bear.

8/13

7:00に起きて、パン、チーズ、ドライのタートチェリー、コーヒーで朝食。アメリカ人は朝が遅いので、一人で先に食べた。今日の移動距離は0.5マイル。みんなで超困難でハードなトレイルだという。向こう岸に行くだけなので、昼までここに留まり、昼食は湖岸の船着き場の辺りで食べた。移動には1時間かからない。途中でキノコを見つけた。木陰にテントを設営し、身体を拭いて休憩。Shroomerはキノコ採集に出かけた。17:00から夕食。Shroomerはキノコをオリーブオイルで炒めてチーズを加え、仕上げはワイルドオニオン(ニラ)。なかなかの味。Etaのクッカーが役立った。自分の夕食は何時もと同じ。吉良食品の乾燥野菜とスモークチキン、貝柱、ビーフジャーキーを煮たスープを玄米やき米にかけた中華丼、フリーズドライの納豆、マッシュドポテトを水で戻してマヨネーズとツナを加えたツナサラダ、インスタントスープだった。Shroomerは水でふやかしたnoncookメニュー、Trail HackerはJetBoilで麺をゆでて食べてた。スープは飲まない。その代わり、水にインスタントのジュースを入れて飲んでいた。Piperは私の中華丼を少し味見して旨いという。夕食後、雷と猛烈な集中豪雨。少し寝ていたが、ほかの人のテントが浸水して大変だったようだ。こちらのテントも老朽化していたので少し浸水した。

I wake up at 7:00, and eat usually bread, cheese, tart cherry ( I bought at REI ), and coffee. Americans were late in the morning, I ate alone. Today's distance was only 0.5 mile.  We talked each other that we were confronted very tough trail ( American way of joke). We stayed here until noon, and ate lunch, since we should only move to the opposite side of the lake front. It would take around 1 hour.  We found the mushroom on the way.  I pitched my tent under the shade of trees, and wiped  the body and rest. Shroomer and Piper went out for the mushroom hunting. We started cooking from 17:00. Shroomer fried mushrooms with olive oil, and added cheese, and finish with wild onion. Wonderful  taste. The Eta system was very useful for him. My dinner was the same as usual:  Main dish was Chinese bowl,  instant whole rice was dipped by  the soup which boiled the dehydrated vegetables, with smoked chicken,  beef jerky,  scallop. Other dishes were the freeze dry  fermented soybeans, the tuna and potato salad which was made with dehydrate potato with water and mayonnaise and  tuna, and instant soup. Shroomer's and Piper's dinner  were non-cook menu. Trail Hacker seemed to like noodles. He always boiled water and ate noodles by JetBoil. He did not drink soup. Instead, he was drinking the instant juice after dinner. Piper tasted a little of my dinner,  and said nice. After dinner, thunder and violent rain came. I was sleeping and awoke the noise. It seemed that other members' tent was flooded. My sleeping bag became a little wet, since my tent was very old.

8/14

6:00に起き、食料を吊していた場所に行き、一人でパン、チーズ、マンゴー、コーヒーの朝食を済ます。Shroomerたちは遅く現れた。今日の移動距離は短いので、テントやスリーピングバッグを完全に乾かしてから移動するとのこと。パックキングして、テントを持ってきて、日当たりの良い場所に設営して、スリーピングバッグも干す。11:00移動開始。今日の移動距離はたったの3.3マイル。13:00時、Kootenai 湖、湖岸に近い良いテントサイトにテント設営。Shroomerは裸になって湖に飛び込む。やることがないので、空中を飛んでいる鳥の撮影も試みる。ハイカーたちと湖岸で話す。

I wake up at 6:00, went to the food hanging pole, and ate breakfast of bread, cheese, mango, and coffee alone. Shroomer and others appeared late. Today's distance was very short, therefore we decided to start after drying tents and sleeping bags completely.  I bring my tent to the hanging pole place, and pitched my tent at a sunny place after easy packing, and also dried my sleeping bag. We started to hike at 11:00.  Today's distance was only 3.3 miles. We arrived at Kootenai Lake, and pitched our tents near the lakefront. Shroomer became naked, and jumped into the lake. Since there was nothing to do, I took photographs of flying birds in the air. We talked with other hikers at the lakefront.


8/15

6:00頃起きた。Shroomerは対岸にMooseを見たらしい。熱心さがなかったのでテントから出なかった。何時もの朝食、7:15出発。今日は32キロ、上昇1300メーター、下降600メーターというタフなコース。幸い、アメリカのトレイルは傾斜が緩い。Waterton Riverからの登りになると景色がよく見える。Valley トレイルを登り切り、Cathedral Peakの近くの峠で休憩。スイスのような景色が広がる。1時間ほど進むとテントサイトがあり、グリズリーが現れたというメモがあった。ここは予約していない。昼近くになるが、まだ、道のりは半分。見通しは良い。Highline トレイルという名前。Shroomerは水を見つけて昼食にしたいというが、川が涸れていて水がない。30分くらい歩くと、小川が合ったので、行動食を食べた。さらに30分ほど歩くと、小川があったので小休止。これはAhern Creekだった。残り1/3程度だが、まだ数時間かかる。歩行ペースが遅いので、少し先にスタートすると、Hell Hikerだと言われた。Shroomerは疲れていたようだ。アップダウンが何度もあり、なかなかGranite Park Chaletが見えない。脚の筋肉が部分的に痙攣したが、気にせず歩いた。17:30 カーブを曲がるとやっとGranite Park Chaletが見えた。カメラの電池を交換するために小休止。Shroomerは空き部屋があるかもしれないので、まずChaletに行きたいという。個人的には早くテントを張りたかったが。18:00 Granite Park Chalet。空き部屋は無かった。ガスを使わせてもらい夕食を作り、外のベンチで食べた。その後、途中で水を汲み、テントを張って落ち着いたのは21:00になった。

I woke up at 6:00. Seemingly, Shroomer looked at Moose on the opposite shore. I had no eagerness, so I stayed in the tent. I ate my usual breakfast. We started to hike at 7:15. Today was the really tough course,  its distance was 32 km, 1300 meters of ascent, and 600 meters of descent. Fortunately, American trail was not steep.  A magnificent scenery was clearly seen when we made an ascent from Waterton River. We rested at the pass near Cathedral Peak,  after hiked up Valley Trail. It looked like as the Switzerland. When we walked  for about 1 hour, there was a tent site, and there was a memo that the grizzly bear appeared.  We had not reserved here. Although it was near the noon,  a half distance remained.  The scenery of Highline Trail  was excellent.

Shroomer wanted to eat lunch, when we found water, but there was no water, only dried creek. When we walked for around 30 minutes, we found a small creek, then we had lunch. I ate an energy bar.  And we walked forward for about 30 minutes or 1 hour, there was Ahern Creek. We rested for around 10 minutes. But, I thought that the remaining 1/3 distance might take several hours. Since my walking pace was slow,  I started ahead. Shroomer said to me that I was a Hell Hiker.  Shroomer might be tired. There were several up and down repeatedly and Granite Park Chalet could not be easily seen. Although the muscles of my legs twitched partially, I ignored and walked forward. At 17:30, When we turned at the curve,  Granite Park Chalet appeared at last. I changed the batteries of camera, and rested for a while. Shroomer said that they might have a vacant room and wanted to go there first. I wanted to pitch our tents at first, but followed him because of curiosity.  At 18:00, Granite Park Chalet. There was no empty room. We could use kitchen, and ate dinner on the outer bench. Then, we got water on the way and pitched our tents .  It was 21:00 when all was settled down.

8/16

6:00頃起きて、パン、チーズ、マンゴー、コーヒーの朝食。Shroomerたちはテントを片付けてパッキングしてから食事の場所に来る。特に理由はないらしい。この頃はかれらと行動を共にした。Granite Parkのテントサイトのpit toiletは木々の間に便器がぽつんとおいてあるだけだった。初めはどうかと思ったが、臭わないし、景色を眺めながら用が足せるし、なかなか良かった。後で聞いた話だが、私の前に用を足した女性の傍にグリズリーが来たらしい。私の時も傍にいたと思うが気づかなかった。

I wake up at 6:00. I ate bread, cheese,  mango, and coffee as breakfast. Shroomer and others comes to the food preparation area, after the packing of the tent. There was no reason in the order. I went along with them in these days.  The pit toilet of Granite Park had was only the toilet bowl lonely between trees. I did not like at first because of privacy, but it was very comfortable, because no smell existed. We could do our business,  looking at a scenery. It was  good. I heard later that a grizzly bear came near to the woman who did business before me.  I did not notice, although the bear might be near me.

7:30 出発、Chaletの前で記念撮影。Swiftcurrent Passへ少し登る。峠から少し下ると、Swiftcurrent沿いの多くの湖が見える。トレイルはよいので快調に飛ばし、11:00 Many Glacier到着。予約テントサイトを探し、テント設営。シャワーできれいになる。下着はシャワーで洗ってしまったが、Piperがコインランドリーを使うのでShroomerとTrail Hackerが便乗。アメリカ人は手で洗わないようだ。レストランで昼食。ShroomerとTrail Hackerは車でWaterton Parkまで行き、一台を回収して戻ってきた。今度は4名でTwo Medicineのキャンプ場まで行き、Shroomerの車をデポ、帰りにTwo Sisterというレストランでステーキを食べる。Many Glacierのキャンプ場に戻ると10:00だった。Shroomerはすっかり疲れていた。

We started hike at 7:30. We took commemoration photos near Chalet.  We arrived Swiftcurrent Pass for a while  When we went down from the pass for a while, we could see many lakes along Swiftcurrent. Since it was a good trail, we walked quickly. We arrived Many Glacier at 11:00.  We looked for the reserved tent site and pitched our tents. We got shower, and became clean.  I washed my underwear in the shower. Since Piper used a coin laundry,  Shroomer and Trail Hacker gave her their underwear. I had not seen that Americans washed underwear by hand. We ate lunch at the restaurant. Now, Shroomer and Trail Hacker went by car to Waterton Park, and returned with two cars. Piper and I killed the time in the store. Then we went to the campsite of Two Medicine, and ate steak at a restaurant called Two Sister on the way to return to Many Glacier.  It was 10:00 when we returned to the campsite. Shroomer was tired very much. 

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